Muslim
Old New Delhi
Okay so the
end of last week was hard work. Nobody really
wanted to be in the office and I was clock watching
from about 16:00 every day. Friday arrived and spot
on 18:00 Chris and I headed for a local bar glad to
put the week behind us. Vikram and Sandra joined us
an hour or so later and we headed for a nearby
restaurant for dinner. We finished up about 23:30
and headed for home having made plans to tour old
Delhi Saturday.
Chris
and Sandra picked me up at 11:30 and we headed off
for old New Delhi. We arrived about an hour later
and headed into the throng of people making our way
towards
Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in
India. Unfortunately it was near to prayer time and
was closing to tourists so we opted to come back
later heading of towards
Chandni Chowk, by way of
Chatta Chowk (covered bazaar). Once
in
Chandni Chowk we found the
Digambara Jain Temple. Unfortunately
camera's are not allowed so I can't show you just
how beautiful it was, but it really was.
After looking around we were all feeling hungry and Sandra hadn't experienced Karims, so we walked back via Jama Masjid, cutting through the main courtyard and found Karims without a problem. After butter chicken, mutton rice, lamb kebab's, and butter narn we headed back to Jama Masjid for a proper look around. When we finished we called for the car and sat on steps of Jama Masjid watching life go by. It's complete chaos and personally I couldn't take it for too long, but it was very interesting watching life go by.
We then headed for Humayun's Tomb, described in the Lonely Planet guide as a "must see tomb". It was quite remarkable and the symmetry, especially of the water features, is amazing to see. The effort put into these places is admirable but I can't help but wonder if they had spent the money on the country India might be a lot further advanced than it is.
We
were all knackered after the visit to
Humayun's Tomb so we headed back to
Gurgaon, via the off-license at the Galleria Mall
for beer and snacks. Chris and Sandra hadn't seen
my apartment and a review of some of the Wii games
I had brought back with me after visiting the UK.
Sandra and Chris headed for home about an hour
later and I spent the evening chilling out in front
of the TV quite happy that I had done something
with the day. Today I am taking it easy. The tailor
is coming round between 15:00-16:00 to do the first
fitting of my suit and then I am off to do some
shopping and get my photo's taken for my
registration tomorrow morning. Then I fully intend
to lounge about and chill out.
Why not check out the Old Delhi Photo's.
After looking around we were all feeling hungry and Sandra hadn't experienced Karims, so we walked back via Jama Masjid, cutting through the main courtyard and found Karims without a problem. After butter chicken, mutton rice, lamb kebab's, and butter narn we headed back to Jama Masjid for a proper look around. When we finished we called for the car and sat on steps of Jama Masjid watching life go by. It's complete chaos and personally I couldn't take it for too long, but it was very interesting watching life go by.
We then headed for Humayun's Tomb, described in the Lonely Planet guide as a "must see tomb". It was quite remarkable and the symmetry, especially of the water features, is amazing to see. The effort put into these places is admirable but I can't help but wonder if they had spent the money on the country India might be a lot further advanced than it is.
Why not check out the Old Delhi Photo's.
|
Christmas and the Taj Mahal
Okay so
Christmas 2007 was certainly different, but let's
start with the negative.
So I woke up Christmas eve about 05:00 with chronic stomach cramps and a bad dose of Delhi Belly. I managed to get back to sleep but was up and down all day. All I could stomach was water and even that was in small sips. By 22:00 that evening I was still feeling rough and had to bail on the party I was supposed to attend, not the way I wanted my Christmas to start but vowed if I was still rough Christmas Day I was going to the chemist and getting something that made me feel better, legal or otherwise.
I woke up Christmas day about 08:00 and wasn't sure how I felt. I had slept all night and just felt hungry. I took a gamble and made myself some toast. It was only when I heard Christmas carols at full belt I remembered it was Christmas day. Now before arriving here I understood that the Christian faith was a minority faith in India, but I was surprised at how many people were celebrating, even if it wasn't quite in the way I was used to. Silly really, if I had thought about it for one second I would have remembered how Indians love a good party and don't need a reason, given a reason it just makes for a bigger party. I'm in!
I took a walk up to the local malls and you wouldn't know it was Christmas, except the street vendors were selling Father Christmas hats instead of the normal tourist junk. Life was in full swing and it was then I decided I was better. I grabbed some fruit juice, milk, and bread and headed for home where I made myself a bacon sandwich and opened my Christmas stocking that Mum had sent me back with. I thought of opening the Christmas presents straight after but decided I need to keep the tradition so settled back and watched Christmas movies. At about 12:00 I decided it was lunch time and made myself a ham salad. After I finished I opened my Christmas gifts (Thanks Everyone). I then called Vikram and we re-organised the Christmas Eve Party.
Karan
picked me up at 18:30 and we headed to Vikram's
place. I got the usual warm welcome at Vikrams
place, the guard asked me 20 inane questions, I
shrugged and quoted the apartment number, he tried
to get me to sign in and I refused, he called
Vikram and I headed for the elevator shouting back
"I don't understand". Once inside we had a couple
of beers, ordered some food, and headed for the
local beer shop to stock up. Vikram took delivery
of his new car on Sunday and I wanted a ride so we
went for a 5 minute trip around the block, picked
up some beer and headed back.
Later that evening we were joined by Vik's friends and drank, ate, but mainly drank our way through the evening, only really stopping to put the train back on the tracks for the son of Vikram's friends. It was a great evening and a better outcome that I had thought given how I had felt on Christmas Eve. I left about mid-night and had a lay-in on boxing day.
Boxing Day I woke up about 11:00 and went for a wander for a couple of hours. I couldn't really be bothered doing anything else so went back to the apartment and chilled out listening to loud music, reading, and about 15:00 I gave in and opened a beer and started to think about what else I was going to do with the few days I had left. I had mentioned to Karan that I wanted to go to the Taj Mahal so called him up. After a little discussion we settled on a 06:00 pick up.
So this morning at 06:01 I was in the car heading for Agra. It was dark and cold and I wanted to go back to bed, but NO NO NO I told myself. I have been here since July and done nothing but work so I was doing this. About 20 minutes from Agra Karan woke me up....WOW what a dump!
We made our way through the car park barrier and were swamped with tout's, vendors, Camels, and offers of an auto rickshaw ride. I could smell the camels as I got out of the car and opted for an auto rikshaw and the government guide. We drove the 35 seconds to the Taj (Doh first mistake) paid Rs 200 (£2.56), well over the odds, but then enjoyed a pretty good guided tour. The place is pretty impressive, although not as impressive as I was expecting. I don't know exactly what I was expecting really but other people had told me a lot about it, so I guess I was expecting it to be bigger. It probably is if you look at the reasons for it being built, but it is difficult to appreciate the work that went into it, unless you have first hand knowledge of working with marble.
Anyway after about 2
hours the tour guide offered to show us how the
marble inlay was done, and I was quite interested
in seeing this (mistake number two). We headed out
of a side gate into what was obviously a street of
shops and the guide showed me to a little
"government" shop. I smelt a rat as soon as I saw
the benches in front of the counters and was asked
to sit as they brought out a selection of there
wares.
Now they were nice and I love marble so listened to the sales patter. They showed me plates, cups, jewelry boxes, and elephants but I got up and said I wanted to look around on my own. This confused them somewhat, but ass I had been suckered so was going to make the most of it. I made them more or less empty ever display case of something or other and inspected every inch. I finally settled on a set of six marble coasters with the Taj Mahal inlaid. They tried to push me further but I then said I changed my mind and wanted nothing. We eventually settled on the coasters.
Next
stop was how they made the precious stones, and I
saw this one coming. I walked in the shop and the
guide stepped back outside. What he hadn't realized
is while paying for my coasters I had emptied my
wallet of notes and credit cards into other
pockets. The guy spent about 3 minutes getting
boxes out of the display cases and I took my wallet
out, making sure he could see its contents and
asked what I could buy for Rs 150 (£1.92). He was
*pissed*.
I left the shop and asked the guide to show us back to the car. We arrived back at the auto rickshaw and climbed aboard. 35 seconds later we were back at the car and the auto rickshaw driver was demanding another Rs 200. I told him I had already paid and walked away. Poor Karan then became the subject of there attention. They settled on Rs 50 from Karan, which I gave to him later and then told me they had booked me a table at the restaurant for a very special lunch. The guide was equally as pissed when I told them that Karan had already booked us a restaurant and we needed to leave to make the appointment. I guess I should of told Karan about this before hand, but he just went quiet and shrugged.
Now lesson number three was that I should have asked the guide how much before hand, but government guides are usually Rs 500 (£6.39) but he was demanding Rs 1000 (£12.78). I thought about arguing, but it's not in my nature.....Okay so the rickshaw guy's were gathering and the look on his face when I pulled out Rs 1000 from my other pocket was priceless after hearing the words exchanged between him and the precious stone seller.
Well I had learnt a few lessons, but I don't think I came out cheated. In fact I think there were a few guys stood there at the end wondering exactly what had happened.
So we jumped in the car and headed back out into Agra. Did I mention it's a dump? This time I was awake and Karan couldn't stop laughing when a rickshaw driver hit him from behind depositing his customers on the ground and I yelled 20 POINTS. We worked our way out heading for Fatehpur Sikri. About half way Karan announced he was hungry and I realized I hadn't eaten all day so way out of my depth I asked Karan to find a restaurant.
Now given my experiences on Christmas Eve I was a little hesitant when we pulled over into what I can only describe as a little chef without the elegance. I was surprised however when Karan barked something and we were shown into a side building that was just like a little chef (Plastic chairs, and patio tables included). The restaurant was full of other middle class indians all happily eating so I went for it. There were western dishes on the menu, but I have learnt these usually carry more risk as they are not quite sure what they are cooking or how to cook them so we settled on Roti and Dal. It wasn't bad but I couldn't live on it. The waiter then brought out another dish and set it down and stated it was complementary. Karan wasn't sure and I could see it in his face. I asked him it was okay and he said he wasn't sure. I said I would try it and then he said in a very authoritarian way that he would try it first. I could see he wasn't comfortable. He tried one mouthful with Roti and didn't look impressed. He took a mouthful of bottled water I had insisted on buying and said, "no it's bad, old food!" Then started yelling at the lad that had set it down. There must have been something in it as the place went quiet and he cleared it away. Two lunches Rs 220 (£2.81), including a coke and bottled water. Time will tell if it was value for money I guess. We continued on to Fatehpur Sikri.
We
arrive in normal style, surrounded by touts but
this time we were ready. I had told Karen
No Guides. He didn't quite
understand the Internet but understood I could read
about it. Mind you it didn't stop the bastards
trying. The funny thing was the official government
guide started off at Rs 500 and dropped to Rs 100
as we got nearer. Karan and I both laughed when we
were accosted by a young lad that could be no more
than 7 who offered to be our guide for Rs 7
(£0.09). I gave him Rs 10 for making me smile, and
no I still had my wallet as I walked away.
At the top of the steps we were approached yet again and Karan tried every trick in the book to get rid of him. It was when he told me that Karan wasn't allowed in I bite and asked him if he could fly? He looked a little confused, so I explained if he spoke to me or Karan again I was going to throw him off the top of the stairs, funnily enough he gave up, mind you he did say goodbye as we left. Well I felt better, but won't win any UN recognition awards.
We drove back and I feel shattered, but happy. I can now say Xmas 2007 I went to the Taj Mahal!
The photo's can be found here if you haven't clicked on the embedded pictures already, Xmas 2007, Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri.
So I woke up Christmas eve about 05:00 with chronic stomach cramps and a bad dose of Delhi Belly. I managed to get back to sleep but was up and down all day. All I could stomach was water and even that was in small sips. By 22:00 that evening I was still feeling rough and had to bail on the party I was supposed to attend, not the way I wanted my Christmas to start but vowed if I was still rough Christmas Day I was going to the chemist and getting something that made me feel better, legal or otherwise.
I woke up Christmas day about 08:00 and wasn't sure how I felt. I had slept all night and just felt hungry. I took a gamble and made myself some toast. It was only when I heard Christmas carols at full belt I remembered it was Christmas day. Now before arriving here I understood that the Christian faith was a minority faith in India, but I was surprised at how many people were celebrating, even if it wasn't quite in the way I was used to. Silly really, if I had thought about it for one second I would have remembered how Indians love a good party and don't need a reason, given a reason it just makes for a bigger party. I'm in!
I took a walk up to the local malls and you wouldn't know it was Christmas, except the street vendors were selling Father Christmas hats instead of the normal tourist junk. Life was in full swing and it was then I decided I was better. I grabbed some fruit juice, milk, and bread and headed for home where I made myself a bacon sandwich and opened my Christmas stocking that Mum had sent me back with. I thought of opening the Christmas presents straight after but decided I need to keep the tradition so settled back and watched Christmas movies. At about 12:00 I decided it was lunch time and made myself a ham salad. After I finished I opened my Christmas gifts (Thanks Everyone). I then called Vikram and we re-organised the Christmas Eve Party.
Later that evening we were joined by Vik's friends and drank, ate, but mainly drank our way through the evening, only really stopping to put the train back on the tracks for the son of Vikram's friends. It was a great evening and a better outcome that I had thought given how I had felt on Christmas Eve. I left about mid-night and had a lay-in on boxing day.
Boxing Day I woke up about 11:00 and went for a wander for a couple of hours. I couldn't really be bothered doing anything else so went back to the apartment and chilled out listening to loud music, reading, and about 15:00 I gave in and opened a beer and started to think about what else I was going to do with the few days I had left. I had mentioned to Karan that I wanted to go to the Taj Mahal so called him up. After a little discussion we settled on a 06:00 pick up.
So this morning at 06:01 I was in the car heading for Agra. It was dark and cold and I wanted to go back to bed, but NO NO NO I told myself. I have been here since July and done nothing but work so I was doing this. About 20 minutes from Agra Karan woke me up....WOW what a dump!
We made our way through the car park barrier and were swamped with tout's, vendors, Camels, and offers of an auto rickshaw ride. I could smell the camels as I got out of the car and opted for an auto rikshaw and the government guide. We drove the 35 seconds to the Taj (Doh first mistake) paid Rs 200 (£2.56), well over the odds, but then enjoyed a pretty good guided tour. The place is pretty impressive, although not as impressive as I was expecting. I don't know exactly what I was expecting really but other people had told me a lot about it, so I guess I was expecting it to be bigger. It probably is if you look at the reasons for it being built, but it is difficult to appreciate the work that went into it, unless you have first hand knowledge of working with marble.
Now they were nice and I love marble so listened to the sales patter. They showed me plates, cups, jewelry boxes, and elephants but I got up and said I wanted to look around on my own. This confused them somewhat, but ass I had been suckered so was going to make the most of it. I made them more or less empty ever display case of something or other and inspected every inch. I finally settled on a set of six marble coasters with the Taj Mahal inlaid. They tried to push me further but I then said I changed my mind and wanted nothing. We eventually settled on the coasters.
I left the shop and asked the guide to show us back to the car. We arrived back at the auto rickshaw and climbed aboard. 35 seconds later we were back at the car and the auto rickshaw driver was demanding another Rs 200. I told him I had already paid and walked away. Poor Karan then became the subject of there attention. They settled on Rs 50 from Karan, which I gave to him later and then told me they had booked me a table at the restaurant for a very special lunch. The guide was equally as pissed when I told them that Karan had already booked us a restaurant and we needed to leave to make the appointment. I guess I should of told Karan about this before hand, but he just went quiet and shrugged.
Now lesson number three was that I should have asked the guide how much before hand, but government guides are usually Rs 500 (£6.39) but he was demanding Rs 1000 (£12.78). I thought about arguing, but it's not in my nature.....Okay so the rickshaw guy's were gathering and the look on his face when I pulled out Rs 1000 from my other pocket was priceless after hearing the words exchanged between him and the precious stone seller.
Well I had learnt a few lessons, but I don't think I came out cheated. In fact I think there were a few guys stood there at the end wondering exactly what had happened.
So we jumped in the car and headed back out into Agra. Did I mention it's a dump? This time I was awake and Karan couldn't stop laughing when a rickshaw driver hit him from behind depositing his customers on the ground and I yelled 20 POINTS. We worked our way out heading for Fatehpur Sikri. About half way Karan announced he was hungry and I realized I hadn't eaten all day so way out of my depth I asked Karan to find a restaurant.
Now given my experiences on Christmas Eve I was a little hesitant when we pulled over into what I can only describe as a little chef without the elegance. I was surprised however when Karan barked something and we were shown into a side building that was just like a little chef (Plastic chairs, and patio tables included). The restaurant was full of other middle class indians all happily eating so I went for it. There were western dishes on the menu, but I have learnt these usually carry more risk as they are not quite sure what they are cooking or how to cook them so we settled on Roti and Dal. It wasn't bad but I couldn't live on it. The waiter then brought out another dish and set it down and stated it was complementary. Karan wasn't sure and I could see it in his face. I asked him it was okay and he said he wasn't sure. I said I would try it and then he said in a very authoritarian way that he would try it first. I could see he wasn't comfortable. He tried one mouthful with Roti and didn't look impressed. He took a mouthful of bottled water I had insisted on buying and said, "no it's bad, old food!" Then started yelling at the lad that had set it down. There must have been something in it as the place went quiet and he cleared it away. Two lunches Rs 220 (£2.81), including a coke and bottled water. Time will tell if it was value for money I guess. We continued on to Fatehpur Sikri.
At the top of the steps we were approached yet again and Karan tried every trick in the book to get rid of him. It was when he told me that Karan wasn't allowed in I bite and asked him if he could fly? He looked a little confused, so I explained if he spoke to me or Karan again I was going to throw him off the top of the stairs, funnily enough he gave up, mind you he did say goodbye as we left. Well I felt better, but won't win any UN recognition awards.
We drove back and I feel shattered, but happy. I can now say Xmas 2007 I went to the Taj Mahal!
The photo's can be found here if you haven't clicked on the embedded pictures already, Xmas 2007, Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri.
A very busy week.
So today I was determined to have a day off and get out and see a bit more of this fascinating country. So I headed into Delhi to see the Qutab Minar and the lotus temple. I met up with Laurence at 10:30 and we drove to the Qutab Minar, a Muslim Mosque that was originally built around 300 AD as a Hindi Temple. The photo's I took really don't do it any justice but the hand engraved art work was just fantastic. The Qutab Minar itself as well as being a place of worship is also one very large sun dial. There are stones around its base that mark the hours.
After the Qutab Minar we headed for some lunch, Pizza Express and a little touch of home. We were both pretty tired after that but went on the Lotus Temple. We didn't go in but had a good look around the grounds.
About 16:00 we headed home and I grabbed an hours nap. Tonight I intend to chill out and watch a few movies. I'm not sure what I am going to do tomorrow as yet, but have some tentative plans to go to one of the nicer hotels and spend the day by the pool. I'll let you know how things turn out, but for now check out the photo gallery for the Qutab Minar and the lotus temple pictures.