Christmas and the Taj Mahal
So I woke up Christmas eve about 05:00 with chronic stomach cramps and a bad dose of Delhi Belly. I managed to get back to sleep but was up and down all day. All I could stomach was water and even that was in small sips. By 22:00 that evening I was still feeling rough and had to bail on the party I was supposed to attend, not the way I wanted my Christmas to start but vowed if I was still rough Christmas Day I was going to the chemist and getting something that made me feel better, legal or otherwise.
I woke up Christmas day about 08:00 and wasn’t sure how I felt. I had slept all night and just felt hungry. I took a gamble and made myself some toast. It was only when I heard Christmas carols at full belt I remembered it was Christmas day. Now before arriving here I understood that the Christian faith was a minority faith in India, but I was surprised at how many people were celebrating, even if it wasn’t quite in the way I was used to. Silly really, if I had thought about it for one second I would have remembered how Indians love a good party and don’t need a reason, given a reason it just makes for a bigger party. I’m in!
I took a walk up to the local malls and you wouldn’t know it was Christmas, except the street vendors were selling Father Christmas hats instead of the normal tourist junk. Life was in full swing and it was then I decided I was better. I grabbed some fruit juice, milk, and bread and headed for home where I made myself a bacon sandwich and opened my Christmas stocking that Mum had sent me back with. I thought of opening the Christmas presents straight after but decided I need to keep the tradition so settled back and watched Christmas movies. At about 12:00 I decided it was lunch time and made myself a ham salad. After I finished I opened my Christmas gifts (
Boxing Day I woke up about 11:00 and went for a wander for a couple of hours. I couldn’t really be bothered doing anything else so went back to the apartment and chilled out listening to loud music, reading, and about 15:00 I gave in and opened a beer and started to think about what else I was going to do with the few days I had left. I had mentioned to Karan that I wanted to go to the Taj Mahal so called him up. After a little discussion we settled on a 06:00 pick up.
So this morning at 06:01 I was in the car heading for Agra. It was dark and cold and I wanted to go back to bed, but NO NO NO I told myself. I have been here since July and done nothing but work so I was doing this. About 20 minutes from Agra Karan woke me up….WOW what a dump!
We made our way through the car park barrier and were swamped with tout’s, vendors, Camels, and offers of an auto rickshaw ride. I could smell the camels as I got out of the car and opted for an auto rikshaw and the government guide. We drove the 35 seconds to the Taj (Doh first mistake) paid Rs 200 (£2.56), well over the odds, but then enjoyed a pretty good guided tour. The place is pretty impressive, although not as impressive as I was expecting. I don’t know exactly what I was expecting really but other people had told me a lot about it, so I guess I was expecting it to be bigger. It probably is if you look at the reasons for it being built, but it is difficult to appreciate the work that went into it, unless you have first hand knowledge of working with marble.
I left the shop and asked the guide to show us back to the car. We arrived back at the auto rickshaw and climbed aboard. 35 seconds later we were back at the car and the auto rickshaw driver was demanding another Rs 200. I told him I had already paid and walked away. Poor Karan then became the subject of there attention. They settled on Rs 50 from Karan, which I gave to him later and then told me they had booked me a table at the restaurant for a very special lunch. The guide was equally as pissed when I told them that Karan had already booked us a restaurant and we needed to leave to make the appointment. I guess I should of told Karan about this before hand, but he just went quiet and shrugged.
Now lesson number three was that I should have asked the guide how much before hand, but government guides are usually Rs 500 (£6.39) but he was demanding Rs 1000 (£12.78). I thought about arguing, but it’s not in my nature…..Okay so the rickshaw guy’s were gathering and the look on his face when I pulled out Rs 1000 from my other pocket was priceless after hearing the words exchanged between him and the precious stone seller.
Well I had learnt a few lessons, but I don’t think I came out cheated. In fact I think there were a few guys stood there at the end wondering exactly what had happened.
So we jumped in the car and headed back out into Agra. Did I mention it’s a dump? This time I was awake and Karan couldn’t stop laughing when a rickshaw driver hit him from behind depositing his customers on the ground and I yelled
Now given my experiences on Christmas Eve I was a little hesitant when we pulled over into what I can only describe as a little chef without the elegance. I was surprised however when Karan barked something and we were shown into a side building that was just like a little chef (Plastic chairs, and patio tables included). The restaurant was full of other middle class indians all happily eating so I went for it. There were western dishes on the menu, but I have learnt these usually carry more risk as they are not quite sure what they are cooking or how to cook them so we settled on
We drove back and I feel shattered, but happy. I can now say Xmas 2007 I went to the Taj Mahal!
The photo’s can be found here if you haven’t clicked on the embedded pictures already,











